Bistro Saint George

New York

The New York Times

The Feel, and Taste, of France

Saint George, a youthful new bistro, is finding fresh ways to meet and exceed expectations for bistro fare. Patrons can still pretend they‘re dining in Lyon (escargots à la bourguignonne! pommes de terre boulangère!), but the dress code now runs to distressed jeans and driving moccasins instead of pleat-front slacks and full-length minks. The name, which brings to mind an English boarding school or an isolated part of Canada, happens to be that of Mr. Vergara’s pet rabbit. And it’s stenciled on the front window in antiqued gold lettering that looks as if it has been there since the Crusades. Black-and-white photos on the bistro‘s website show dreamy damask roses in perpetual bloom and ancient stone walls hung with ivy. The triptych menu is printed in precise letterpress black and red, waiters wear old-fashioned striped aprons and the very good bread is swaddled in a cloth napkin. You can have your absinthe and drink it too.”